By Gemma Baker

For The Bali Times

MOMBASA, Kenya ~ I returned to Kenya three weeks ago, this time independent of the volunteering agency I had been with previously. After seeing what was unfolding on the news, I knew I had to come back to help.

My first day back was heart wrenching I walked around Mombasa with tear-filled eyes; I was so sad to see the usually happy Kenyan people looking more subdued and contemplative.

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By Richard Laidlaw
For The Bali Times

UNGASAN, Bali ~ When new Australian Prime Minister Kevin Rudd visited Bali this week to attend the UN climate conference and make the symbolic move to have his country ratify the Kyoto Protocol, it would have been one of his proudest moments.

Not many Australian leaders get the chance to stand in the global spotlight immediately on taking office. Even fewer get the opportunity in doing so to leave the president of the United States like a shag on a rock.

Rudd convincingly won Australia’s national elections on November 24, persuading the country’s voters to toss out the 11-year-old Howard government. Almost his first act thereafter was to formally embrace Kyoto, leaving the United States as the only developed country not to ratify.

Rudd also got to visit Bali, of course, which is always a plus.

Not a lot separates Labor and the formerly governing Liberal Party in the policy sense. (Arguably more separates the true political objectives of the Liberals from those of the smaller, rural-based National Party with which it historically has lived in coalition.)

Ratifying Kyoto is the bellwether issue. It outranks Iraq, another Labor totem in terms of withdrawing combat troops (all 550 of them: many others will remain on duty in the Gulf and in Iraq itself). It even beats industrial relations as a touchstone, made too hot for Howard by his round of further reforms after his historic fourth term victory in 2004.

Rudd understands Kyoto’s symbolic importance and its political attraction. Howard didn’t, or maybe he mistook Australians’ relaxed and comfortable approach to life, and their love affair with consumerism, for absence of reformist zeal to ameliorate the worst-case effects of climate change.

The new Australian leader is a bureaucrat by training, experience and practice. He is a politician by choice, but what he brings to politics and government is a process-driven, public service perspective. That’s not to say his vision is deficient. At this point, you could make a strong argument that politically at least it is 20-20.

But it is to say that the Rudd government is unlikely to surprise anyone, in rhetoric or results.

Rudd himself is cautious, an assiduous consensus builder, a quick learner. Famously, he is a Mandarin speaker. Fortunately, he now speaks Mandarin far more effortlessly and accurately than he did when, as a hapless third secretary in Australia’s Beijing embassy in the middle 1980s, he reported to the Chinese, for whom he was translating a visiting Australian luminary’s happy words, that the two countries were enjoying multiple orgasms in their relationship.

He also has a strong streak of common sense. Advice that is wrong will not be accepted, if the evidence of one incident in 1994 is any guide.

At that time the chief adviser to the premier of Queensland, Rudd was considering a move into parliamentary politics. This writer, at that time editorialist on Queensland’s state daily newspaper The Courier-Mail and enjoying one of those comfortable little chats that media people have with the great and powerful from time to time, remarked that Rudd should perhaps consider running for the Senate (the upper house, from which the prime minister cannot be chosen).

Thank goodness he failed to act on that poor advice.

Richard Laidlaw worked in the media and in government and politics in Australia from the early 1970s and came to Bali to live in 2005.

By Michael AW

For The Bali Times

SYDNEY, Australia ~ On November 19, the Japanese whaling fleet Nisshin Maru and three chaser ships left southern Japan for its biggest hunt since commercial whaling was officially banned. Adding to its annual haul, this season, they are also aiming for humpback whales from Australian waters, escalating the environmental dispute over whaling to a new height.

Humpback whales have not been legally hunted in the Antarctic since 1963, and never since the moratorium on commercial whaling came into effect in 1986. In 20th century history, never have so many whales been earmarked for death in a single year. But then again, is this Japan at its worst? Under the guise of scientific research, 50 humpbacks have been added to the Japanese target, with 50 giant fin whales and up to 935 minkes. Are the Japanese reverting to a bygone dark era? Sounds like a resounding “Yes!” Real scientists don’t need to kill whales to study them. This is really commercial whaling badly dressed up as science.

The Institute of Cetacean Research in Tokyo disclosed that the hunt would take place in Antarctic waters southwest of Australia. This means that many of the whales are most likely to be slaughtered in an Australian whale sanctuary off the coast of the Australian Antarctic Territory. As data shows, the humpbacks would come mainly from stocks that breed and migrate off the east and west coasts of Australia. In this instance, it is a clear violation of international law by the Japanese as Humpback whales are listed as endangered with CITES - the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, an international agreement between governments. In this context, the use of weapons within an Australian territory can be loosely interpreted as an act of war, or at best, a criminal offence. However, prosecution or any robust defensive action by the Australian authorities, at least up till now, appears to be highly unlikely and cursory.

Nevertheless, Kevin Rudd, the new prime minister of Australia, said that he will send Navy and RAAF planes to monitor the Japanese whaling ships. At the very least, this is a demonstration of force compared to the ousted prime minister, John Howard, who in political ambiguity waffled, “I totally disagree with what the Japanese are doing in relation to whaling and our responses have got to be completely in accordance with Japanese law and every time I meet a Japanese prime minister, I raise this issue and I’ll continue to do so.”

Japanese law in Australian waters? This is a blatant case of a government saying one thing - that they’re opposed to whaling - but doing far less than is satisfactory to try and stop it. At least the former Australian foreign affairs minister Alexander Downer was honest, saying that the federal government does not want to take action against Japan over whaling if that would harm Australian interest.

It will be difficult for any reasonable person to understand the justification, or lack thereof, as the whaling is conducted in Australian territorial waters. All Australia would need to do is send a warship and demand that the Japanese leave or be apprehended. The Japanese whaling industry is in defiance of both Australian and international law, tantamount to an international criminal operation. Killing a whale is similar to a poacher killing an elephant, koala or a panda. Perhaps the war against whaling is won by Sonys, Canons and Hondas?

An outspoken man Yoji Kita from the southern whaling town of Taiji, Japan, strangely but correctly pointed out that by global standards, there are lots of double standards. Much less to killing a whale, it is illegal for Australians to swim with whales. This law is vigilantly enforced in Australian waters and is a jailable offence. Apparently this is not so for the Japanese.

Remember Steve Irwin, the much-loved Crocodile Hunter with carte blanche to get up close and be smothered by any animal of any size, even the endangered ones? Well, even for Steve, in 2004 he was subjected to federal government investigations for a criminal breach of wildlife laws after allegedly clowning around with whales and penguins while filming a documentary in Antarctica. Under Australian law, interacting with Antarctic wildlife is strictly forbidden, attracting fines of up to AUS$1 million (US$869,000) and two years’ jail. At that time, federal parliamentary environment secretary Sharman Stone confirmed that the government had granted Irwin’s company permit to film whales, but she added: “It certainly wouldn’t have said you can jump in and pat them.” Stone’s comment also implied that though many countries shared jurisdiction over Antarctica, Australians working there are bound by Australian laws. Not so for killing whales, and if one is Japanese.

It is gin clear that the governments involved are not being transparent or sensible at addressing the issue, nor have the gumption to enforce any effective action to dissuade the whalers. What, then, should the rest of us, who proclaim our disgust at this fib and carnage, do? Only 11 percent of Japanese are pro-whaling, and 14 percent are anti-whaling, according to polls, with the vast majority sitting quietly in abstinence. Perhaps standing up, vocalizing and even boycotting Japanese products till the whaling stops might persuade this majority to join forces and push their authorities to stop this whaling massacre under the guise of scientific research.

Japan’s economy runs mainly on exports, but there is nothing that they make that can’t be gotten from another country. At a time when human demand is eating into the Earth’s natural resources at an unsustainable rate, is it really necessary for these friendly cetaceans to die for what is little more than the misguided notion of a Japanese minority, albeit a politically and economically motivated one?

The very thought that so many whales are being killed in agony for the glory of a minority is heinous and horrendous. As concerned and reasonable global citizens, we can all play a responsible part. Be it boycotting Japanese products or vocalizing and representing the helpless whales’ plight, we can make a conscious choice for whales, for our children.

Michael AW is chairman of OceanNEnvironment, a marine conservation organization based in Sydney.

By Ray Clark
For The Bali Times

SEMINYAK ~ An island readily known for its relaxing charm, a mystical fiesta for the senses, with kilometers of dreamlike beaches and eventful nightlife. Seminyak is a fusion of all, with a subtle elegance found with the most luxurious hotels, an array of amazing gastronomy amongst the hard-to-choose-from fashionable restaurants, many next to beaches of fine sand, light waves and mighty palm trees and elegant, upscale, easy-to-reach discotheques. The upsurge of individual designer-type boutiques has taken the area by storm, plus the newest and best in villa designs to attract a discerning clientele.

Seminyak’s natural and cultural appeal, along with its exquisite entertainment facilities, surpasses all other destinations on the island. From my own personal experience, this is where you have the best of everything, without having to endure the worst. For those visiting, it is the experience of calm and tranquility with the ability to access the island’s tourist attractions, if needed.

In the southern region of Bali, you have Kuta, the playful, carefree region where tourists indulge in various activities, from shopping to a vibrant nightlife. Further north you have Ubud, a place of retreat where the temperature is cooler, the climate more humid and the scenery aplenty. On the peninsula of the island, half an hour from Kuta, you have Nusa Dua, a place of hospitality and resort dining. With Seminyak, you have a fusion of all three: excitement and serenity, sophistication and relaxation, a place that is both laid-back, yet serious about fulfilling all your needs. If you want to experience the relaxation of the island, to meet its delightful indigenous community, whilst staying and dining in international comfort, Seminyak is the place to be.

It is relatively quiet compared with its close neighbor of Kuta, with equivalent, if not better, beaches. You will find more sand to choose where to lay your towel along this stretch of coastline, without having to share it with excessive amounts of surfers and beach vendors. An area that has retained its village traditions and community spirit, daily processions and ceremonies can be seen from its dutiful people. For romantic sunsets, it’s the place where you can only dream of walking with that special person. Once your visit to Bali has been and gone, certain things may be forgotten, but the sunsets will be remembered forever.

The area is growing from what was once a separate township to what can now been seen to have merged with the southern development of Kuta. However, following the coastline from the beaches of Kuta, going north, you will notice the change in atmosphere and its surroundings. You will come to the island’s more famous restaurants, Ku De Ta, Breeze at Samaya, La Lucciola, which are set on the beach and are an evening must on a visit to the area.

Just up the road, with easy access, we have the island’s favored Warisan, Living Room & Hu’u Bar, all world-class and very different, and a stone’s throw away we have the infamous Jl. Laksmana, with its bountiful, hard-to-get-a-seat, multicultural restaurants. Some of these restaurants were the first tourist landmarks to the area, and have remained some of the most popular. This has encouraged rival eateries where there is an underlying competitive streak throughout the menus, and along with the area’s paradisiacal charm, has helped to separate Seminyak from its noisier neighbor.

Location and facilities play a key part in experiencing the best of any area; what also helps is ensuring you chose the right resort. Seminyak has the personal touch, which is sometimes lost from the larger resorts in other areas of the island. A majority of villa-style resorts gives the area the calm that is needed to unwind, with the luxurious indigenous villas helping to make your stay more unique. What we have tried to achieve at The Samaya is a delicate blend of welcoming hospitality with the privacy needed to rest, unwind and relax. The resort epitomizes the ethos of Seminyak, both offering the opportunity to experience peace and tranquility, whilst being able to absorb the delights of easy access to international cuisine and cultured entertainment.

The Seminyak area is precious, a jewel in the crown of Bali that has been discovered, and is being enjoyed by many, but still retains its charm, sophistication, distinct style and clientele. These guests don’t do or won’t do hotels, no matter how high-end; the renting of luxury villas is their norm.

Seminyak needs to be experienced to understand modern Balinese culture, where the fusion of tradition and culture meets the Western world. And whilst this gem is still sparkling, make sure everyone you know gets the chance to see it.

The writer is general manager of The Samaya.

By Tony Greenwood

For The Bali Times

PERTH, Australia ~ The first thing you notice in Bali is the collection of cats and dogs roaming the streets. They don’t seem to belong to anyone in particular. Rumor runs wild among the tourists. They are mobile, takeaway animals; they can be plucked from the street at any time and eaten by some person from the hills. Satay puppy dog, as we all joke as we see a little old lady with no teeth cooking on a small, smoke-ridden fire.

Then goes the story, don’t kill a stray cat or dog; it’s someone’s grandmother or someone from the afterlife. Pick which one of these stories to believe. The truth is these cats and dogs probably did or do belong to someone or some village. They just roam the streets and dodge the cars and motorbikes, like us, looking for a meal or a nice cool place to sit and dream the day away.

Then you head to the back laneways and see a rooster in a rattan basket - no food, no water. Poor bugger. You go to pat him and he nearly takes your arm off. He’s a fighting cock, bred to kill. Cruel, yes, but that’s Bali for you, or any part of the world, really.

Small cages are hoisted meters into the air, the melodious coo of a dove bringing a smile to your face. The chance to look into the sky brings your attention to the hundreds of other birds that fly around in Bali. You then note many other simple things that you had missed: a gecko scoots across the path; a motorbike buzzes by with babi guling in a saddlebag. This is Bali.

This what we come here for - the culture, the experience. Take all of this out of Bali and you don’t have a tourist attraction.

My family and I head to the Denpasar market (Satria), where thousands of birds are up for sale. We hold our breath in fear of bird flu or some other nasty disease. I peep into the back room of one of the bird stands: a mattress and a bedroom is neatly tucked away, and by chance I ask, “Do you sleep here?” to the very slim man with a clove cigarette hanging from his mouth. “Of course; it’s my home. I live here.” My mind ticks away. Imagine doing this back in Australia.

Take a trip to the bush or the outback  of Australia, and it’s not too much different to what you see on the streets of Kuta or Legian.

A naughty little monkey catches my eye. My kids scream with joy, “Let me pat him!” With great caution I edge my hand closer and closer to pat the fluffy little creature. It’s been your life fantasy to have a monkey. “$20 Australian,” shouts the man. Oh, only if I could smuggle him home. What a treat.

A nasty smell is emerges as you hold the little bundle of joy. He’s pooed. Filthy retch. I hand him back in disgust, my dream of ever owning a monkey quashed.

Made the driver buys us a drink from a small stall next to a man selling worms and crickets, baby rats, too.

Come on, gang, it’s back to the hotel pool for a nice Bintang that’s surely safe.

Bali is what you make of it. The people in Bali make Bali what it is today: mystical, paranormal, historical and exciting.

We leave thinking how can they afford to live, poor buggers. I also think, “Poor us, heading home to the rat race we call home.”

The writer is owner of Peel Zoo in Western Australia.

By Warwick Brady

For The Bali Times

JAKARTA ~ Building airlines into great airlines is what I enjoy! After four years of spectacular growth in Ryanair, which is now Europe’s largest airline, I learnt all the tricks of the trade of running profitable and successful airline.

I then moved on to India, to build Air Deccan into the second-largest Airline in the country. I was delighted to take up the reins of Mandala in July 2007, following the purchase of the airline by serious airline investors from the US (Indigo Partners) and Indonesia (Cardig International). The investors mandated that the new Mandala would comply with the highest international standards of airline safety and management.

My mission is to turn Mandala into Indonesia’s number-one airline. As part of the growth plans, Bali is a key element of our network strategy. Recently we announced Bali as a base for our brand-new Airbus aircraft, offering a network of seven cities and 24 daily flights. However, Bali is only part of the puzzle.

Mandala Airlines has a 38-year history of a being a well-run airline with experienced and professional staff and was identified as the best airline for investment in Indonesia.

The concept is to create a well-run, safe airline that capitalizes on Indonesia’s 25-percent growth year-on-year for the past five years. Mandala is a national brand with the Indonesian consumer, and we have now ordered 30 brand-new Airbus aircraft to ensure a modern, safe fleet. We also now have a sizable fleet of modern Airbus aircraft, of which four are brand spanking new.

The vision of the airline is to dominate Indonesian domestic travel and provide our customers with excellent customer service. Mandala considers customer service as safe, reliable, affordable travel with really friendly and efficient service. To deliver on our vision and objectives, we have already built a good operation. Our on-time performance from Bali exceeds 88 percent within 15 minutes and 99 percent within one hour, whilst we also complete 99 percent of planned flights. It’s all part of the new Mandala - delivering low fares, modern aircraft, excellent and friendly service and a reliable operation. We are also very particular about our cabins. Our cabin crew are the best in the industry, having won the industry award for the Best Cabin Crew 2007.

The ingredients for offering low fares to customers are derived from an efficient, well-run airline so that we can pass on the savings to our customers. The only way to achieve this is by having a really great team. One of my criteria before accepting this exciting challenge was to hand-pick airline veterans to work with me to create an international-standard operation. The result is a South African CEO, a New Zealand chief operating officer (Steve Wilks), a British director of engineering (Brian Bradbury), a Dutch director of flight operations (Captain Cor Blokzijl) and a Singaporean director of sales and marketing (Ai-ling NG). Of course our airline would not be complete without talented Indonesians such as our chief commercial officer, Irianda Susilo (ex Timezone CEO), and Yadi, our chief financial officer. Mandala is the United Nations of the Indonesian airline industry.

Considering two factors, such as an EU ban and the safety situation of Indonesia, the first task for our team is to ensure that we benchmark ourselves to international standards for safety. Consequently, we are now undergoing the IOSA Audit program, which is part of the International Air Transport Association that conducts Audits for International Safety Compliance. It’s not just about IOSA. We have spent most of our time building our safety systems. The key things we have done are:

•     Singapore Airlines Engineering Company is contracted to maintain our Airbus Fleet – “Best in Industry”

•     Safety & Quality Department setup with investments into new safety system like “Safety Net” and a special aircraft-monitoring system from Airbus called Airfase. All these things are aimed at mitigating risk.

•     Training – Lots and lots of training is done and is planned for our pilots, engineers and flight attendants.

•     Audits – Airlines are all about maintaining standards and regulations, so we now have our own in-house auditors, just like police, to check our systems.

And so the sky’s the limit for Mandala, as we move into a new, exciting chapter of the airline’s history. Join us on our journey.

The writer is the new CEO of Mandala Airlines.